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Wild Game Cooking

Birch Bolete – How to Identify, Harvest and Cook Birch Boletes

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How to identify, harvest and cook the birch bolete, Leccinum scabrum. Birch boletes are edible, but are best dried first. They make a fantastic, homemade cream of mushroom soup, are great in stews and sauces.

I am not a porcini snob. Many of my fellow mushroom hunters are, and they spurn the birch bolete. Too bad for them. The flavor of the birch bolete is wonderfully mushroomy, in that warm, savory, wintry way.

But the porcini snobs do have a point: Unless you get birch boletes that are very young, and free of worms, the flesh can be punky and soft because these mushroom absorb water like nobody’s business.

What’s a hungry mushroomer to do? Dry your birch boletes first. More on all this in a moment.

What follows below are tips on how to identify, harvest, prep, store and eat birch boletes.

A mature birch bolete in Minnesota.

Identifying Birch Boletes

For starters, they live near birch trees. Duh. If you don’t know how to identify a birch tree, start with this primer. There are lots of kinds of birch trees.

And there are lots of kinds of birch boletes. “Birch bolete” is a term of art we use to identify a complex of species, all in the leccinum clan. Biologists tend to be lumpers and splitters, meaning they either want to lump all the variants into L. scabrum, or the splitters want to make them their own species.

I’m not getting into that argument, because I don’t, and you don’t, have to: All birch boletes are edible.

  • All are associated with birch trees. The cap colors all range from ivory to a warm gray to tan to brown. Not orange! That’s a different leccinum, and a story for another day.
  • All have white, tight pores under the cap, not gills. The pores age to a dingy, dishwater brownish color.
  • The stem can be thin or fat, straight or curved. It will always have “five o’clock shadow,” the salt-and-pepper markings that are called scabers. It will always be fibrous.
  • Alas, they are often very buggy because birch boletes are a summer-to-fall mushroom. I’ve seen them as early as June, and as late as November where birches are native.
  • Also, birch boletes generally do not stain blue, although once in a while I’ve seen the very base of the stem stain a greenish-blue. But only the base, never the cap.

Pro tip: Don’t live where birches do? Cruise around for planted birch trees, which are used a lot in landscaping. I had a reliable birch bolete spot in my friend Elise’s front yard in Sacramento, where they didn’t fruit until January.

Older birch boletes, showing the white pores.

How to Harvest

Start by finding a grove of birch trees in late summer or early fall. The mushrooms will fruit in waves, so if you miss one, another will show up later, so long as it’s before the freeze and you get rain.

This is not normally an issue, because birches tend to live in wet places. But, given that, many a birch bolete will be soggy. With many boletes, this means they are buggy. And your birch bolete may well be, but I’ve found even large ones that really need drying to be bug free — and tiny, fresh ones that are buggy as hell.

The cap tends to break off the stem a lot. Either be OK with this — you are likely drying most if not all your birch boletes, so no biggie — or carry a big basket so they have room.

I slice the mushroom off at the base. This immediately tells you if your birchie is buggy or not, because the teeny worms start in the stalk and work their way up to the cap.

Gather in a basket or mesh or paper bag. Not plastic. The mushrooms will get melty and disgusting. Ask me how I know…

On Bugs: A few worms are OK, because when you dry them, the worms flee the mushroom. Totally riddled shrooms are, well, no good. At least to me.

Young birch bolete in Alaska.

Prepping Birch Boletes

Once home, I like to separate my birch boletes. In one, usually small, pile will be the very young, tight and firm birchies. These and only these can be cooked fresh. They are nice, meaty, and savory — although like all leccinum mushrooms, birch boletes darken almost to black when cooked.

Most of your mushrooms will be dried.

I start by slicing off the stem, then slicing that stem in half lengthwise. You’ll see how buggy it is immediately. If it’s decent — a few bugs are fine (more in a moment) — slice again crosswise. Remember the stem of a birch bolete is fibrous.

Slice the cap in half. In older mushrooms, pull off the spongey pores. Dry them separately. I really, really like to powder the pores to make a birch bolete version of my porcini powder. It has endless uses, mostly to add umami savoriness to pretty much whatever you can think of.

Cut the cap in maybe 1/4 inch slices and dry. Birch boletes, and all leccinums, should be dried relatively cool, like 100F or so. The higher the temperature, the darker they will get. This is only aesthetic, it doesn’t affect edibility. Dry until crispy and store in a Ziploc bag.

Pro tip: Add a silicone dessicant packet, especially if you live in a humid area.

Brown birch bolete in Alaska.

Cooking Birch Boletes

This is why you are likely here, so here we go. Cooking a birch bolete usually means rehydrating them, then using the mushrooms in soups, stews, as a ravioli filling, inside a burrito, pasta sauce, inside pierogi or somesuch.

They are a northern mushroom, so I like to use them in northern cuisines, like Scandinavian, Russian or other Eastern European, or in cold regions of Asia, like Korea or Manchuria or Hokkaido in Japan. If you’re into Nepali food, birch boletes are found in the Himalayas, so give that a go.

Note: This should go without saying, but birch boletes must be thoroughly cooked to be edible.

Here are some great recipes that will all work with rehydrated birch boletes.

mushroom bisque recipe

Wild Mushroom Bisque

This is my go-to recipe for birch boletes. They make a phenomenal, homemade “cream of mushroom soup.” So good you’ll want to gather lots of birchies in fall.

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Porcini powder in a mortar and pestle.

Birch Bolete Powder

I normally do this with porcini, but grinding dried birch boletes for this powder is amazing. It adds flavor to almost anything you can think of.

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Two lihapiirakka, Finnish meat pies, on a plate with one broken open.

Lihapiirakka, Finnish Meat Pies

Adding rehydrated, chopped and sauteed mushrooms to these Finnish meat pies is a most excellent idea.

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Close up of mushroom spinach frittata in a cast iron pan on a table.

Mushroom Spinach Frittata

Birch boletes for brunch? Hell to the yeah…

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Cooked mushroom pierogi on a plate.

Mushroom Pierogi

Maybe the best recipe for birch boletes that isn’t mushroom bisque…

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Creamy mushrooms in a bowl with toast alongside.

Creamy Mushrooms on Toast

This is a great recipe for rehydrated birch boletes, or if you run into a mess of nice, clean young fresh ones.

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Venison with a French mushroom sauce on a plate

Mushroom Sauce for Steak

Works fantastic with birch boletes, as well as most mushrooms…

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A plate of mushroom tortellini

Mushroom Tortellini

While I like this recipe with morels or porcini, you could use any wild or cultivated mushroom for these tortellini. Use the same mushroom for the final dish that you use in the pasta filling. Once the pasta is made, this dish comes together very quickly.

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Pike dumplings recipe

Pike Quenelles (Dumplings) in Broth

The combination of a northern fish with a northern mushroom is a natural, so using birch boletes for the broth of this recipe is a winner.

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Pheasant with mushrooms, cream and greens in a pot.

Pheasant with Mushrooms

Rehydrated birch boletes are excellent with this recipe — make it even more Northwoods by using ruffed or spruce grouse!

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Source link: https://honest-food.net/birch-bolete-edible/ by Hank Shaw at honest-food.net

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Wild Game Cooking

Fish Wings Recipe – How to Cook Walleye Wings

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Here’s how to cut and cook fish wings, the collar and belly parts of fish like walleye, snapper and rockfish. Walleye wings are especially popular.

Using fish wings is a great way to get more out of the fish you bring home. They are fun to eat — it’s finger food, like chicken wings — the meat is texturally different from the rest of the fish, and it’s often fattier and richer. Wings, collars and throats are often the best part of a fish.

Depending on the fish and the region you live in, these can be called collars or throats, as in salmon or yellowtail collars, or snapper throats. Cod throats are a thing in New England. Walleye wings are the fish wings of choice in the Midwest.

The cuts are slightly different, but they are all from right behind the head of a fish, and usually include at least the pectoral or pelvic fins, and always the very front of the belly of the fish.

Generally speaking, collars include the arc of meat behind the gill plate and behind the fish’s head. Wings are below that, and include one or two sets of fins, while throats are only the bottom of the belly and may or may not include pelvic fins.

I use heavy-duty kitchen shears to remove them all. Many in the Upper Midwest simply remove walleye wings with the same electric knife they used to remove the fillets. Not being a fan of electric knives, I find the combination of a regular fillet knife plus shears works fine.

Most people cook fish wings either on the grill or they fry them. Both methods are great. I find that if you fry the wings, a very light coating of flour helps get things extra crispy because that flour will absorb any excess moisture; corn or potato starch is an excellent, gluten-free option.

Why leave the fins on? Well, they’re cool-looking, for starters. Second, once fried crispy, you eat the ends of the fins. Yes, you read that right. The ends of the fins get soft enough to eat, are ultra crunchy and not at all fishy in a bad way. You’ll thank me later.

grilled fish collars on a platter. grilled fish collars on a platter.
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Sauces for Fish Wings

Basically anything goes. I’ve seen anything from Lawry’s lemon pepper and butter to teriyaki sauce, to old-school Buffalo wing sauce to barbecue sauce. Here are some good ones for fish wings:

  • I love tossing the cooked wings or collars with a honey mustard sauce, which is great on chicken wings, too.
  • A Japanese ponzu sauce works fantastically, especially with salmon or trout collars.
  • I marinate collars and fish wings sometimes in a ponzu-like sauce. I do this especially for hamachi kama, yellowtail collars. Any large collar works.
  • A very simple, Mediterranean-style olive oil, herb, and lemon marinade is great, too. This is my go-to for all lean fish collars, like from striped bass or big snapper.
  • Another good option is a straight-up barbecue sauce. I am fond of this Chinese-style char siu barbecue sauce.

Serving and Storing

Fish wings, collars, etc. don’t keep well. They’re oddly shaped, so while you can freeze them, they tend to break seal in vac bags, and their shapes lend themselves to air pockets however you store them, which leads to freezer burn.

My advice is celebrate your harvest with wings and collars right after fishing. Sure, they’ll keep several days in the fridge, but eat them fresh. You’ll like them better that way.

If you liked this recipe, please leave a ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ rating and a comment below; I’d love to hear how everything went. If you’re on Instagram, share a picture and tag me at huntgathercook.

  • Optional Step: Mix 1/4 cup salt with 1 quart of water until the salt dissolves. Brine the fish wings or collars in this in the fridge for 4 to 12 hours. I like to do this before I go to bed, then drain off the brine when I wake up.

  • Alternatively, you can just salt the wings well and set aside while you heat about 1 inch of oil in a large pan. You can also use a deep fryer.

  • Lightly flour the fish wings, pressing it in. Set them aside as the oil heats.

  • If you have lots of wings to fry, set up a warming station in a 300°F oven by putting a cookie sheet in that has a cooling rack set above it. As the wings are fried, set them on this rack in the oven. This will keep them light and crispy so they don’t get soggy on paper towels.

  • When the oil hits 350°F, fry the wings, starting with skin side up. The wings will arc upwards. Press them down with your tongs or spatula until they relax and flatten, maybe 20 seconds. Fry until golden brown, about 4 to 8 minutes per side.

  • If you’re using a sauce, toss the wings in the sauce in a large bowl right before you serve them.

Calories: 243kcal | Carbohydrates: 12g | Protein: 42g | Fat: 2g | Saturated Fat: 0.3g | Polyunsaturated Fat: 1g | Monounsaturated Fat: 0.2g | Cholesterol: 98mg | Sodium: 123mg | Potassium: 953mg | Fiber: 0.4g | Sugar: 0.04g | Vitamin A: 91IU | Vitamin C: 2mg | Calcium: 39mg | Iron: 2mg

Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.

Source link: https://honest-food.net/fish-wings-recipe/ by Hank Shaw at honest-food.net

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Wild Game Cooking

Dan Dan Noodles Recipe – How to Make Dan Dan Noodles

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Dan Dan noodles are likely one of the few Sichuan dishes many Americans know about. Wheat noodles, tossed with sesame paste, soy and chile oil, topped with ground pork or some other meat. But this dan dan noodles recipe is a little different.

A bowl of dan dan noodles
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

No matter which of the many variations you find, they are all street food, named for a shoulder pole used to carry the pots and ingredients for the noodles, and while its origins are in Sichuan, there are versions of it all over China, as well as here in the U.S.

So, I have to tell you that the first time I ate dan dan noodles, they were gross. It was like eating sweet peanut butter noodles. I swore off them as some nasty side note of Chinese cuisine, until I bought Fuchsia Dunlop’s book The Food of Sichuan. Dunlop, an Englishwoman, graduated from culinary school in Sichuan and is generally considered the authority on that province’s food in the English language. The book is amazing.

And in it are two dan dan noodles recipes, neither of which were sweet or peanut buttery. I later learned that what I disliked about what I’d eaten here was something Chinese chefs did to the dish to make it appeal to American palates. Go figure. Guess I don’t have a typical American palate.

I was especially struck by Mr. Xie’s dan dan noodles, which in Dunlop’s book use ground beef and not pork. The thought struck me immediately. Hey, I happen to have a lot of ground venison and duck in the freezer, and this would be awesome! For those of you squinching your noses, know that once you grind meat, it pretty much tastes like any other red meat.

Neither of the versions Dunlop includes in her book are soupy, which I like. American Chinese versions are often soupy, and it’s not my favorite with this flavor combination.

What are those flavors? Meaty, spicy but not overly so, rich from the sesame paste, a bit salty from both the soy, and the preserved mustard stems that are part of the traditional minced pork topping.

If you want to make this dan dan noodles recipe the way Dunlop does, you will need to get yourself to an Asian market. There are several unusual ingredients in it that are all vital to the flavor. That said, I will give you rough alternatives that are easier to find. It’ll taste different, but will be more accessible to most of you reading this. I’ll also link to online sources of these ingredients if you want to go that route.

  • Chief among the special ingredients is Chinese preserved vegetable. Tianjin preserved vegetable or its cousin, yibin yacai. Both are long fermented mustard stems that, when you take them out of the packed or jar, look, well, not like mustard stems. But they are a great source of salty, savory flavor and are worth trying to get. Here’s where I found Tianjin Preserved Vegetable, and I bought Yibin yacai here. If you want to make real dan dan noodles you need one of these. But if you don’t feel like buying them, minced sauerkraut or kimchi will get you into the same galaxy, although they are not really that similar.
  • Sesame paste. I know, you’re immediately thinking about buying tahini. And yes, if you have no Asian markets around, go for it. But the Chinese sesame paste doesn’t taste the same. but Dunlop gives us a recipe for making your own by toasting 2/3 cup of sesame seeds until nicely nutty and tan, then grind them well. Bring 5 tablespoons of neutral oil to 355°F and pour that over the ground, toasted seeds. You’ll be good to go.
  • Chile oil. You can buy this in most supermarkets, or make it by pouring hot oil over ground hot peppers, with a spoonful of toasted sesame seeds. The general ratio is 4:1 oil to ground chiles, plus a small amount of toasted sesame.
  • Sichuan peppercorn. No substitute. You need this. Asian markets all have it, and I buy my Sichuan peppercorns from Penzey’s. Yes, you can skip it, but there is no real alternative ingredient.
All the ingredients for dan dan noodles in little bowlsAll the ingredients for dan dan noodles in little bowls
Photo by Holly A. Heyser

Everything else is easily obtainable from a supermarket. As for the noodles, you want Chinese wheat noodles, but Italian vermicelli is a decent substitute. Definitely check your supermarket’s Asian aisle, though, as they often have the Chinese noodles there.

Putting together an authentic dan dan noodles recipe requires a bit of forethought, but the cool thing is that once you have the ingredients and have made the topping, you are ready to make the noodles whenever you want for about a week, which is how long the topping will keep in the fridge.

Finished dan dan noodles recipe, with two bowlsFinished dan dan noodles recipe, with two bowls
By Holly A. Heyser

When it comes time to serve, the idea is to boil your noodles, make the topping while the water is heating, put a little of the sauce ingredients in each bowl, top with the meat, then let everyone mix and eat as they want.

If all this sounds like a long walk for a cup of coffee, keep in mind that I was skeptical, too. But once I made real deal dan dan noodles recipe, I was convinced. I think you will be, too.

Incidentally, I cook a lot of Sichuan food. You might want to try my recipes for fish fragrant chicken (or pheasant, or whatever), Sichuan rabbit with peanuts, or twice cooked pork.

If you liked this recipe, please leave a ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ rating and a comment below; I’d love to hear how everything went. If you’re on Instagram, share a picture and tag me at huntgathercook.

TOPPING

  • Heat the peanut oil in a wok or heavy frying pan over high heat. When it’s hot, add the chiles and stir fry about 30 seconds, until you can smell them. Add the ground meat and stir to combine. Stir fry over very high heat until the meat has browned, then add the remaining topping ingredients, toss to combine and cook for another minute or so. Turn off the heat.

NOODLES

  • Before you even start the topping, get a large pot of water over a burner set over high heat. You want it to be boiling when you are done with the topping, although it’s not critical that both are done at the same time.

  • After the topping is ready and the water boiling, add the noodles and gently stir them so they don’t stick to each other. These typically only need maybe 3 minutes or so to be ready, but follow the directions on the package.

  • While the noodles are boiling, divide all the other noodle ingredients – except for the minced chives – among four deep bowls. To serve, give everyone some noodles over the sauce ingredients, add some topping and some chives, and let everyone stir and mix and eat!

The optional ingredients really make this dish, but if this is your first time, skip them because chances are you’ll need a special trip to buy them, or go via Amazon. That said, if you already like eating Dan Dan Noodles in restaurants, order the special ingredients. 

Calories: 598kcal | Carbohydrates: 39g | Protein: 20g | Fat: 40g | Saturated Fat: 8g | Cholesterol: 37mg | Sodium: 1489mg | Potassium: 253mg | Fiber: 3g | Sugar: 2g | Vitamin A: 135IU | Vitamin C: 7mg | Calcium: 17mg | Iron: 4mg

Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.

Source link: https://honest-food.net/dan-dan-noodles-recipe/ by Hank Shaw at honest-food.net

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Wild Game Cooking

Whitefish Salad Recipe – How to Make Whitefish Salad

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

A classic recipe for whitefish salad with sour cream, capers, celery and sweet onions. Smoked whitefish is the traditional fish to use, but most fish works. My secret? Mix both smoked and cooked, flaked fish in your salad.

I have a long history with whitefish salad. I grew up in New Jersey, and smoked whitefish and chubs were and are a staple at most Jewish delis. As a kid, I loved buying a chub and some good mustard and saltines and chowing down on that for lunch.

Whitefish salad was for sandwiches. It’s basically a tuna salad, which is why this recipe works even if you don’t have smoked whitefish. Many traditional versions are heavy on the mayo and kinda “wet,” which I don’t love.

This recipe is chunkier, and crunchier, and I split the mayo with sour cream. For the pictures, I used a combination of poached, flaked lake trout and smoked whitefish. A few tips to make your salad shine:

  • Use a combination of smoked fish and either leftover fish, or, poach some fish, flake it out, and add to the bowl.
  • For a serious pro tip, mix smoked fish with flaked crabmeat. It’s mad crazy good.
  • Only use sweet onions, like vidalia or maui or walla walla sweets. It’s important. Skip the onion and go with chives or scallions if you can’t get sweet onions.
  • If you don’t like capers, skip them. But use only the little ones, or chop the bigger ones.
  • If you feel like it, add a tablespoon of mustard to the mix. It is a nice touch. If you do this, skip the horseradish.
  • If you have an undying hatred of celery, or just want to mix it up, use a few tablespoons of pickle relish, or mince some pickles for that tang and crunch.

Serving and Storing Whitefish Salad

Whitefish salad is best eaten right after it’s made, but you can store it in a closed container in the fridge for a few days. It does not freeze well — although both smoked fish and cooked, flaked fish do freeze nicely.

I prefer serving whitefish salad as an open-faced sandwich on rye bread with something like thinly sliced radishes on top, as you see in the picture. It’s also amazing on a toasted bagel; “everything” bagel, for me.

A regular “tunafish sandwich” style sandwich works great, too, as does a “tuna melt” with cheese, if that’s your thing (it’s not mine). It’s also good just spread on Saltines or other crackers — Swedish crispbreads, like those made by Wasa, are an excellent option. I suppose you could make a whitefish salad wrap, too.

If you liked this recipe, please leave a ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ rating and a comment below; I’d love to hear how everything went. If you’re on Instagram, share a picture and tag me at huntgathercook.

  • Put the fish in a bowl and check for tiny bones. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Tinker with the lemon juice, horseradish and, if you want it “wetter,” add more sour cream and/or mayo, 1 tablespoon at a time. Served chilled.

Once made, whitefish salad will keep up to 5 days in the fridge. 

Calories: 250kcal | Carbohydrates: 4g | Protein: 21g | Fat: 16g | Saturated Fat: 4g | Polyunsaturated Fat: 7g | Monounsaturated Fat: 4g | Trans Fat: 0.03g | Cholesterol: 93mg | Sodium: 266mg | Potassium: 608mg | Fiber: 1g | Sugar: 3g | Vitamin A: 416IU | Vitamin C: 5mg | Calcium: 61mg | Iron: 1mg

Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.

Source link: https://honest-food.net/whitefish-salad-recipe/ by Hank Shaw at honest-food.net

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